Puppy-Wuppy presents
 Dog Training Articles

Some of the articles listed below are provided to you by well known dog behaviorist, Beth Bradley,

 Author of REAL WORLD DOG TRAINING.
 

 

This Page is comprised of articles either I have written, obtained permission from reprinting, or have found from various unknown authors.  A special note to Elizabeth Bradley, dog behaviorist, trainer, and author of Real World Dog Training, who also provided some of the enclosed articles for this page.  The balance of the articles have been published in Front and Finish, Off Lead, or other various dog training trade magazines.  The appropriate authors are noted to each article.  I hope you find them useful and please email us if you have any other suggestions for future articles that you would like to see.

 Training Articles:

What is Dog Training?

Training consists of (1) teaching your dog commands and (2) re-teaching him new behaviors to replace bad habits.  In essence, training is creating habits in your dog.  Going outdoors to relieve themselves, sitting on command, heeling next to you on a leash, stealing food from the counters, jumping on people; they are all habits.

There are three very important phases to training dogs: (A) The Teaching Phase; (B) the Correction Phase and (C) The proofing phase.

The Teaching Phase:

This phase consists of creating the association between a command and an action on the dog's part.   This phase is sometimes taught by you, the owner, because the completion of the action on the dog’s part elicits some type of reward; i.e. either a toy, praise, treat or all three.  For example, you give the command Sit and raise a treat above your dog’s head, he sits because he is ‘following’ the treat and you praise him and reward him with the treat for doing so.  After some repetition, the dog understands that when he is commanded to Sit, he will receive a treat or reward of some type once he places his ‘rump’ on the ground. 

In order to have success in this phase must acknowledge his correct response to your command with praise and a reward of some type, food or ball or toys.  Your dog’s reward should be his most favorite thing. 

This phase can also be self-taught by the dog for a bad habit.  For example; the dog smells food, he jumps on the kitchen counter and steals the food on the counter.  In essence, the dog just taught himself that if he jumps on the counter he can self-reward himself for jumping by stealing food.

The amount of time it will take you to complete this phase depends upon the command being taught, the amount of time that you have to teach this command and the intelligence of your dog.  Each command you teach will go through a Teaching Phase.  My recommendation is that the Teaching Phase is done in a place that has minimal distractions so your dog can focus on your command and learn what he should be doing.

The Correction Phase:

Before entering this phase in dog training, it is very important that you, as the handler and owner, are 100% certain that the dog understands what you want of him and that your dog is deciding that his response to the command is not important.  If your dog is unsure of the command or what you want from him, then you need to spend more time in the Teaching Phase.  When you are in this phase the reward is given intermittently and the dog does not see the reward.

Sometimes the reward is just not enticing enough to a dog to respond to a command or the dog believes that his choice of misbehavior outweighs the reward in which you will give him.  It is during this phase that you are teaching your dog that his response to obedience commands is not optional. 

When your dog misbehaves or is disobedient, you must immediately reprimand him verbally and with some type of compulsion if necessary.  The correction should immediately stop the disobedience.  If your dog returns to this behavior, then your correction was not meaningful enough.  If a verbal correction is enough and your dog does not return to the disobedient behavior, then there is no reason to physically correct; but if your dog does return to being disobedient you didn’t make a big enough impression on him.  It doesn’t matter what method of compulsion you use as long as your dog responds, respects and learns from the correction.

You know you are ready to move on to the next phase when you are training with your dog and he always responds quickly and without a correction to a command; only using verbal praise and without a physical reward.  If you are still correcting your dog through most of your training session, you are not ready for distractions.

The Proofing Phase:

It is during this phase that you will be using distractions and new environments to teach your dog that training is a way of life not something that is done at a certain place or at a certain time.  In the Teaching Phase you taught your dog in an area with minimal distractions, now that you are 100% certain that your dog understands the command you begin to add distractions; slowly add distractions.  Some dogs have problems in new areas without distractions.  That is because the NEW AREA IS A DISTRACTION.  If that is the case, take baby steps in that new area and then once the dog is proficient in that area with distractions, off to another new area but again take baby steps.  You want to train in areas that are populated by people and other animals.  Sometimes, it only takes one dog at a distance to distract your dog, you must know what is going to be distracting to your dog and how close in proximity you can get to the distraction before your dog completely loses control.  Sometimes it is just adding another person on a walk that will distract your dog from the Heel command.  If that is the case, don’t go to the park where you will not only have the distraction of the person walking with you but also children, other dogs, bicycles, wildlife, etc.

Conclusion:

It is important that you take ample time in moving from each phase so your dog completely understands what it is that you want from him.  If your dog is confused, this will lead to mistakes not disobedience to commands.  Don’t be afraid to take a step back in training to convince yourself that your dog understands what you want from him and/or to move slowly from step to step to ensure your dog’s success.  The goal is to keep the training fun and positive; if your dog is at all confused training then ceases to be fun and instead becomes riddled with stress.

 

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How To Pick a Dog Trainer

Unfortunately, you do not need any type of certification to become a dog trainer.  There are ‘organizations’ that dog trainers can belong to but membership does not necessarily mean the person can train dogs and unfortunately, many trainers just talk a ‘good game’.

When searching for a dog trainer, ask him/her what he/she has done with his own dogs.  Just because his dog is well mannered, does not necessarily mean he can train your dog.  I not only I teach my own dogs basic behavior but also I am constantly competing with my dogs at obedience and Schutzhund competitions.  I put my methods of training to the test of knowledgeable judges and expert trainers each time I trial.    Also, I have clients who compete with their own dogs, therefore, my talents and techniques are being tested by knowledgeable persons under whom my clients trial.  [Don't forget to read Beth's complete resume and visit her All-Stars Page].

 I have seen/ heard many trainers brag about what they can do or what they have done and I have heard trainers use big psychological terms for certain dog’s behavior that was very incorrect.  Their resume should speak for itself.  I don’t want to hear about what should be done, I want to see the person work with a dog and even a few dogs and get immediate results.  Even though you may not be interested in competition, you want someone who is not afraid to let his peers judge him and grade his techniques.  And you want a person who is unafraid to ‘show’ you what he can do with his own dog and with your dog and still show you a happy, obedient and well-adjusted dog.

Not everyone can take any breed and/or problem and work with it.  That is where experience and expertise come into play.   A good trainer can work with all types of problems and breeds.  And a good trainer will use whatever equipment or reward will work for your dog.  Training methods should be adaptable depending on the different situations.  Each dog, like each person is different, if a trainer ‘pigeon holes’ your dog into the same category as all of the dog’s he trains, then he will be doing a disservice both to you and your dog.   Disregarding a type of collar or reward will limit the training of certain dogs and can de-motivate a dog or worse yet make a dog more unruly.

Selecting the highest price trainer does not guarantee that you will have the best trainer nor does selecting the cheapest price mean the other trainer is ‘over priced’.  Ask the following questions when looking for a trainer:

• How much experience have you had training dogs?

• What are your accomplishments (dog shows, etc)?

• Have you or your dogs won any trophies?

• Do you train all breeds?

• Do you train all problems?

• Can I see your resume? 

• Can you give me referrals from clients?

• What accomplishments have your students achieved?

• What methods do you utilize (positive only, correction and positive, clicker, adaptable to each dog’s behavior)?

• What type of equipment do you use?

• What is your experience with aggressive dogs?

• What is your area of expertise?

• Can I watch you train a class?

And:

• Observe if the dogs in the class are happy and obedient.

• See if the trainer is attentive to problem dogs and if the problems are addressed and solved.

• See if the trainer is taking an active role in the training of the dogs or just commanding the ‘owners’.

• See if the dogs enjoy class and want to be there.

• See if the trainer’s dog is attentive to it’s handler, waiting to work or to be asked to work. 

 

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Training Your Puppy To Be a Dog Your Can Live With

·         Always use a cage when you are not at home or cannot supervise your puppy.

·         Always have a correction collar and leash on your dog when you can supervise him.

·         Never carry your puppy.  This will make jumping extremely hard to break.

·         Keep him off of all furniture (only the leaders of the pack are allowed up).

·         Never allow him to sleep in your bedroom (he is not your equal and shouldn’t sleep with you).

·         Always feed after the family has eaten (the leader of the pack always eats first).

·         Never initiate affection or petting unless you are giving a command first (i.e. ‘sit’ for a pat on the head), make him work for your praise

·      Always initiate play time - don’t allow your dog to demand playtime by bringing you a toy.

·         Do not pet or praise him too much unless you are training.  Ignore them the other times so he understands your life doesn’t surround around him and training is something good.

·         Only allow play outside.  Teach him to be calm in the house so when people are visiting he will not get too excited.

·         The Down/stay is a calming exercise and will teach him to be calm.  Always do a Down/stay when you eating, watching TV or reading the paper.

·         Each command must be followed up with a correction if your dog doesn’t respond to it.    Don’t let him think he is going to get away with double commands.

·         Use normal conversation tone when commanding; his mother’s growl is low and guttural.

·         Don’t push him into situations he finds fearful.  Let him get used to things on his own but don’t make a big deal of it.  If he is frightened of stairs take it one step at a time.

·         Don’t sympathize or try to reassure him.  He may take your good intentions as praise.

·         Don’t console him for fear or pain.  His mother wouldn’t, ignore it and he will understand that it is not a big deal.

·         Don’t allow him to get away with aggression with anyone or anything (i.e. other dogs, people) The “Alpha” protects the pack and its territory.  Another dog in the pack that does so is challenging the “Alpha” for that leadership position.  Don’t allow your dog to think he is “Alpha” and that it is his job.  If you give your dog a command he will believe you are taking control of the situation and he doesn’t have to.  If your dog has confidence in your ability as “Alpha” he will always obey your commands because doing so shows respect to the “Alpha”.

·         Treat him like a dog.  Many behavioral problems are caused by environment (not genetics).  If you treat him like a human he will not understand his place in your household and will cause behavioral problems like fear biting, aggression, destruction, separation anxiety, etc.  Treat him like another dog or his mother would.

·         Give him plenty of exercise.  Exercise and mental stimulation (training) make a happy and healthy dog.

·         Train daily and once your dog is responding well go to different areas with different distractions and train.

·         Constant petting or cooing will make your dog needy.  Let him be and he will let your visitors be.  Remember that his mother wouldn’t be constantly kissing him.

·         If you don’t like something, end it.  Don’t allow it to continue and make sure your correction is strong enough to deter the behavior from happening again.  His mother would give one growl and then she would bite.  Make a lasting impression with your correction.

·         Do not coddle your dog.  If you gave a command make him respond even if he is acting fearful.

 

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STRESS AND BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS

I believe 95% of all behavioral problems stem from one of three areas:  (1) lack of physical and mental stimulation, (2) early puppy/house training and (3) unrealistic expectations from the owner.

Lack of Physical/Mental Stimulation 

Dogs are working animals but through domestication and modern technology they are no longer worked. Home alone for 8 hours followed by a walk around the neighborhood or a run in the yard is not enough physical or mental stimulation. Dogs need exercise (walks, swimming, retrieving) but your dog would much rather exercise with you than by itself in your yard. 

But exercise with no mental stimulation will make your dog crazy.  The working instinct in your dog demands for it to use its brain.  If you don't allow your dog to use its brain for good behavior, you can believe it will use it for bad behavior or strange behavior.  Types of negative behavior I have seen are: aggression, dominance, animal aggression, fear of everything, excessive barking, jumping, chewing, spinning in circles, excessive licking of themselves, diarrhea, destructiveness, digging, chewing their own tails/feet, hair loss or bad coats, dermatitis, excessive weight gain and lack of attention.

Obedience not only teaches your dog self-control but also allows it to think and respond, i.e. using its mind/work.  Teaching your dog anything from tricks to simple obedience commands gives it an outlet and allows thought processes to over-ride negative behavior. 

I believe a dog needs a minimum of 40 minutes to 1 hour of exercise (retrieve, running, etc.) a day and a ½ hour of training a day.  All exercise or all work will not control negative behavior.  A happy medium of both will make your dog happy and well adjusted.

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Clear Communication

Too often I watch owners handling their dogs in a class or training sessions and after one or two corrections the dog’s tail is down, the wag is gone, and the dog is sulking through the exercises.   As a trainer, I know the reason for the sulking.  However, someone with minimal experiences immediately states that the dog is upset with the owner or that he doesn’t like to train.  Sometimes, I can actually see the conflict between owner and dog and not dog and trainer as the owner sees. 

When a dog is trained using clear communication, the training excels.  The idea of clear communication is a phrase of confusion for most people.   Ivan Bablanov created a video series based on teaching clear communication to dogs and their handlers; everyone talks about training becoming ‘black and white’ or ‘night and day’ but the concept is rarely used correctly.

 What is Clear Communication?

 Clear communication includes being consistent with your commands and the way in which you command.  Do not say "down" one day and "lie down" another, this will confuse your dog. Do not allow your dog to pull you when walking in the neighborhood but demand him to heel correctly at your side during training.  Do not  allow your dog to pull you into class but demand him to heel during class.  Do not yell commands one day and whisper commands another day.  Do not prioritize commands and become sterner with certain commands over others.  Dogs cannot prioritize which commands are more important to you, nor can they show their immediate response to which one YOU think is more critical.  In addition, the consistency in corrections is important also.  Many handlers are harder on their dogs in a class environment and more lenient at home.  The dog then associates the training field or class with harsh corrections and that is why we see the tail drop. 

 Consistency with your training equipment is equally important.  You can’t put the training collar and leash on the dog only when he is behaving badly.  Then your dog thinks you only require proper behavior at certain times and he can be wild or disobey when the collar is off.

 Too often I hear clients say out loud, ‘I wish he would listen like this at home’.  The reasoning behind this is because you have established clear rules of behavior in your obedience class or on your training field, but you have allowed gray areas to invade your practice time or training sessions at home. 

 Your dog’s drive:

 Correcting your dog will not break drive.  Breaking the drive of a dog (i.e sulking to the point the dog does not want to work) comes from inconsistent handling.  The dog does not understand when he is allowed to respond in a certain way and when he is going to be allowed to get away with disobedience; therefore, after one or two corrections, he ‘shuts down’.  If you are consistent with the corrections you give for disobedience, your dog will accept such a correction, bounce back and get back into drive almost immediately. 

 Many top trainers in various dog sports profess to new handlers that they should not do obedience with their puppy.  I know that these top trainers are training their own puppies, I do!  But we advise ‘newbie’s not to do any harsh obedience because of the inconsistency in their handling.  Many top trainers also believe pups should be raised in a kennel and not in a home; and that is for the same reason; handlers/owners allow the pup or young dog to get away with disobedience in the home but then become demanding on the training field.

 Conclusion:

 Be sure your dog understands the commands and be consistent with the way you command and handle your dog.  Dogs are much happier when there are no grey areas in their life and their handling.  Make sure your dog understands that ‘heel’ is ‘heel’ and ‘down’ is ‘down’ and misbehavior to  any command is going to get the same correction and reaction from you no matter what the situation and circumstance.  Once there are no grey areas in your dog’s training program you will see him rise to the occasion and become a much happier dog both off and on the training field.

 Our dog’s love for us is unconditional but their respect has to be earned.  Remember: love does not equal allowing your dog to get away with misbehavior.  Once your dog understands that concept, you both will have a very successful training life together.

 

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Obedience is not only Classroom Behavior

Basic, Intermediate, Advanced, Competition, Agility, etc., all of these are wonderful classes that owners take with their dogs to better their obedience skills and mentally stimulate their dogs.  I enjoy watching my client’s dogs improve each time they work their dog in each class.  The improvement is dramatic and the results are great; but, why do owners believe that obedience is only the mastering of skills learned in class, during class?

Obedience is 24/7 with our dogs.  From the moment we wake up until the moment our eyes are closed, if we are near our dogs, they should be well mannered and obedient.  Too often I have dogs entering my classes and urinating or defecating on the floor.  That is not being well mannered.  Do these dogs use their homes as their ‘indoor rest room’?  I have plants in my training facility, not trees for marking.  My business is my home, a dog lifting his leg on my wall or my plant is an insult to me. 

Owners must realize that any where they take their dog; from training school, to their neighbor’s home, to the Veterinarian’s office or to a hotel; that they need to make sure their dog has had ample time to relieve himself and is entering the building being well mannered.  What good is a dog that pulls its owner into training school but heels perfectly during class?

First Mistake:

The first mistake owners make is that they allow their pets to get away with the misbehavior.  Just because you are walking in with two dogs, doesn’t mean they should pull; whether they are excited or not.  Obedience does not start with the teacher beginning class, obedience starts when that dog is walking out of your home with you.  He should be well mannered in the car, leaving the car, walking into the building and leaving.  Dogs that are pulling or out of control are so because their owners allow it.  And then they have the nerve to announce, ‘I wish Fido was this good at home’.    Dog’s are creatures of habit, break the habit, and do not allow them to get away with misbehavior, whether in class or outside of class. 

Stop:

Stop walking; don’t go inside, make your dog understand that he is not going to get what he wants (going in thru the door) unless you get what you want.  Yes, it may take you 20 minutes to walk into class but at least your dog is entering class like he belongs there.  The only way to stop the behavior is to make sure the dog knows that you are not going to allow it to happen.

Take your time:

We all get stuck in traffic more than we like but it is better to enter class late, after your dog has been walked and had ample time to relieve himself, then to enter class and within 10 minutes find a mess on the floor.

What the Instructor can do to help:

As an instructor, I will ask a client to go outside and come through the door again, this time with the dog under control.  I don’t do it to embarrass my client but to remind him or her that obedience is about having a well mannered pet that you can take anywhere without being embarrassed.  If I notice that the client is frazzled, I will ask him or her to relax, bring in their equipment and when they are more organized then get their dog out of the car.  This way they can concentrate on making the dog obey.

The dog that is growling, posturing or marking:

This is very unacceptable behavior that the dog feels he can get away with.  This is like a person entering a party swearing, spitting and pushing people around.  There is no reason for it and owners need to realize that it is unacceptable and needs to stop immediately.

Conclusion:

I allow my students in puppy and basic class to get away with allowing their dogs to behave this way for a couple of weeks, and then I put an end to it.  I feel it is my job to point out the body language and inappropriate behavior to inexperienced handlers so that they can achieve the results that they want; to own a well mannered dog that is welcome everywhere.